The Lost Chapter

Phil is almost 70.  He calls us "kids".    When I'm talking to Phil,  I call Ray and Jerry,  "the boys"    ....and I'm the only "girl" in the family.  And you become a family unit after 24/7.  I'm also the official trip photographer and now scribe.  This is a group shot, sitting on the bench under the tarp...we sat there the entire previous rainy day.    Coffee is on, and breakfast is about to be served.   Mountain House Granola with Blueberries....my favourite!!!! Just before this photo was taken I took a group shot without myself in it.   I thought I had set the timer so I could be in it too, but I hadn't and just got one of those three!  ROFL 

After the fear of bringing my bulky camera was laid to rest....I brought it everywhere....except on ONE reconnaissance trip where we were guaranteed to get very wet.   I got a lot of ribbing over leaving the camera "home".  We have dubbed it: "The Lost Chapter"...and although there is no photo evidence,  it was one of the most discouraging, wettest, most exhilarating trips of the week. It should be told next,  lest it really be lost.   If you're just tuning in, you should begin with the previous post:  "Wabakimi: the First Chapter".

Near the end of our work week, we head across the bay.( which is really a dog leg at the Southern end of Granite Lake), straight into the mouth of Ballast Creek.    Ballast Creek marks the departure from Granite Lake in the direction of Otter Bluff Lake.   It starts in the creek....but it is more like a "rock garden".    Think of what a rock garden will do to the bottom of your beautiful new 18' red Kevlar Souris River  canoe.   It almost hurts.   It's probably good that there is no visual evidence....  We navigate the "creek" as far as we can.....

Before I go on...I must tell you about the existing MNR (Ministry of Natural Rescources) "maps".    They exist in book form and the pages are called "section sheets".    On each sheet is the lake area you are navigating, with numbers and enlarged circle sections that correspond with each number.    So if you are looking at the section sheet for Granite Lake and Otter Bluff Lake, you will see the lakes, the creeks and ponds that connect them, and dotted lines that represent the approximate whereabouts of the portage trails.  The sheets date back to the 1940s and are the most up to date route information for paddlers heading into Wabakimi Provincial Park for a paddling trip.  The sections are not to scale, have no contour lines,  and the portages are not measured....so basically....you have no idea what you'll encounter when you head into the park.  Each circle section shows a dotted line for the portage....  Phil does not have many flattering things to say about the MNR or the section sheets, yet they are foundation for his work and he keeps meticulous records, even if only to eventually show the MNR how poor and outdated the sections sheets  really are. 

We navigate the creek as far as we can....and are keeping our eyes peeled for a blaze on the left hand bank of the creek.   That's where the dotted line starts.     We don't see a blaze anywhere.  Occasionally the tree with the blaze blows down and the landing place is lost.    Since there is very little foot traffic, you don't spot the beaten path either, like you might in Killarney or Algonquin.   We make landfall near a beaver draw, this is an area near a beaver lodge where the beaver will haul branches up onto shore or into the water....it's almost a little hallway among the hummocks, in the winter it is a tunnel of sorts.   We walk through the grass to the treeline.  Often you connect with a portage trail in the treeline that is more protected.   A short way into the treeline, the spruce and pine disappear and give way to a close scrub of alder and birch trees, with the odd evergreen.   This is clear evidence of a burn.   This also means that any blazed trees have likely gone up in smoke.  Morale plummets.    The tree line usually begins where the water line stops and the Canadian shield begins.  Where the sun warms the ground, and there are no evergreens, alder, birch, and aspen take over quickly.   They  grow close together and branches intertwine like the fingers of praying hands.   Imagine trying to walk through this.   Then imagine having a 130lb pack or a canoe on your shoulders.    THAT's why we're here.    We fight our way through the scrub and make it to the pond, which seems to have decreased in size and the boggy shoreline has increased proportionately.     It would be a horrible portage.    We fight our way through back to the canoes and put in.    It is discouraging and exhausting to slog around for 2 hours and come up empty handed.     We head further up the creek and the water level drops...we get out and pull the canoes up the creek.   It is the wettest we've been yet....you get soakers when you're walking through the bog, but wading knee deepish in the creek is new for us.    Actually a neat new part of the adventure.   When the water is deep enough we paddle,  ever vigilant for and dodging the boulders....they sneak up on you and you leave some paint behind.   Ouch.  The bow paddler is supposed to be the spotter.    Supposed to be....  You also have to fight the current here and there when the creek narrows, which becomes tricky paddling with a lot of "draw!"....NO!! DRAW!!!  and "cross draw!"(my new favourite stroke).

We make it through to the shrunken pond section,  paddle through, re-enter the waterway, and by wading further up the creek we eventually come to the bend that should be the landing for the second portage.    The dotted line indicates that it's on the right hand side.  There is a mess of about 6 blowdowns....things are NOT looking up.  We climb out and up and over....hoping that as we head a little ways inland we will stumble onto the portage trail.     We have a short break, and look around for a while...eventually I find the first blaze!!!    This is such a great feeling after the morning we've had!  Adrenaline starts to flow and the boys are filled with new enthusiasm.  The next blazes are easy to find and they walk ahead of Phil and I.

Phil is flagging the blazes and I'm keeping him company.    He is a fount of information: history, bush lore, and tracking tips.    Phil's movements are slow and deliberate.   He insists on climbing over the blowdowns on the game trail.   The blazes line up in almost a perfect straight line when we look over our shoulders and spot the flags.    On the way back to the canoes Phil tells me that his feet tell him a lot.    He can feel the trail and that's why he climbs over the obstacles, because the way the moss compacts under his feet will tell whether we are still on the trail or have lost it.     Sometimes it's hard to tell, it all looks like the same lush green moss.   When there are blow downs, all game abandon the original trail, continuing to follow the path of least resistance.     There was one place where you could clearly see hoof prints in the moss.   Any foot prints we make in the 6-8 inch thickness of  wet spongy moss usually decompress by the next day...this is the resilient nature of moss.   Caribou and moose can be there one minute and gone the next but you'll never hear them.    I try what Phil has just taught me.    I try and feel with my feet.  I know....sounds hokey...but once you tune your senses to this new frequency you realize that it works.  I learned a lot from Phil.   He teaches a lot to those who are willing to listen.   Hearing and listening are two different things, and education is a big part of what Phil does.    He doesn't just tell you the "what" but also the "why", and it all makes perfect sense.   I call it "simple brilliance".

Flagging the trail is a science with its own protocol.    The tape is tied above a blaze.    One must tie a double knot and never a bow, the whiskey-jacks can untie a bow as they desire to bring this bright string/tape to line their nest.  (At first mention, I thought whiskey-jacks might be "alcohol toting lumber leprechauns" but it turns out that they are the curious  and bold Gray Jay with a magpie like affinity for bright things.)  The knot in the tape indicates which side of the tree the trail passes by.  A tree with a true blaze will be marked on both sides of the tree, the front and the back....a third blaze will mark a departure from the trail and will show the direction of this departure.  A departure will be indicated by a second colour of tape and if its tied above the primary tape then it indicates a clearer, easier path to travel....   When you paddle through here someday, the marking tape will be long gone, but the blazes will remain....they are your trail markers.    The next crew will come in,  measure and clear this portage.   Once it is cleared and measured the flagging tape will be removed....or else it would be litter....and after all,  this is a wilderness trip....not walk in the park on a marked footpath.  

The other reason Phil climbs over the mess of blowdowns is that he is wearing the GPS.   He marks every landing, or way point.   It tracks every move we move we make and he would like our moves to be in as accurate and clean a line as possible, not a "Family Circus" outing circling every blowdown and rootball.    The GPS measures the distance between the way points horizontally as the crow flies, and it follows us as walk.   It does not allow for changes in elevation....and there are some steep climbs which can 50 or 60 meters to the length of your portage.     A couple of those can add a few hundred meters!!  Phil has a photographic memory.   He studies the topo map very closely.   He compares it to the section sheets and figures out where we need to be.   Phil loves to use the GPS to show where we've been, but rarely needs it to show where we're going.  

We did not even stop for lunch on this day, so excited to see where the portage would lead.  I had a few handfulls of GORP.   This portage leads to big water, not a pond...but the sausage shaped lake on the section sheet.    Beyond this is another pond, another portage and a creek that leads to Otter Bluff Lake.     This is one of the three routes that meet up in the lower section of Granite Lake.

So what will happen with the non-existing first portage?     Phil and the next crew will make a new trail through the alder scrub.    You can't portage by wading up the creek since water levels change throughout the season, and it is mighty cold up here in May.     They will flag the most direct route to the pond, with the shortest piece of bog.   They'll cut a path through the scrub and then an amazing thing will begin to happen.     Once you create a path of least resistance...the moose and caribou will begin to use it and beat it down, which will keep the alder from growing back in.   

With ominous black clouds at our backs, we head for home...  We are almost back at the mouth of Ballast and out of the corner of our eyes is a lone spruce tree at the edge of the creek bank...with an obvious blaze.  Sometimes you can't see the tree for the forest.

Wabakimi, the First Chapter

We're back from an unforgettable trip to Wabakimi.  

Ray and I were part of a volunteer crew that flew into Wabakimi Provincial Park for a canoe route reconnaissance mission.   Fly in...fly out.   ...and that was an adventure in itself!!  Our mission included locating and scouting out old portage routes originally used by aboriginal people and fur traders.    We  inventoried and marked by GPS campsites that could support 2 four man tents on  the lakes on our particular route.   We discovered two portage trails and flagged them, measured another that had been flagged by a previous crew, and cleared several others.  One route had been cleared in June and had become impassible with several large downed trees by the time we arrived last week.     If you were due to meet your bush plane in the lake on the other end of THAT portage, you would have missed your flight. Over the entire 7 days we probably traveled 60km over both water and land.

What was it like?  Pure unspoiled wilderness.   To walk game trails that haven't seen human foot traffic in decades, maybe even  a century is an experience I won't soon forget.   To see the Milky Way from one end of the horizon, stretching overhead, all the way to the other end of the horizon...immense.   It makes you feel so small but so welcome...like having a front row seat at the greatest show.   You really ARE  in the presence of Greatness.  The sky just goes on forever...night and day.    It almost makes you feel a bit claustrophobic to be back inside town limits, with just the little open square above you.   

 












If you want to know more about the Wabikimi Project click here.

One of Ray's favourite parts of the trip was scouting out "new" trails.    If you were travelling through the park on your own you would need to locate the beginning of a portage trail, or the "landing",  which is marked by a "blaze" on a tree (usually) visible from the water.   This is what a blaze looks like.   The old ones are made with three strokes of an axe, two downward and one upward, which strips the bark from the tree.  Newer ones are made by chainsaw.   Hence the name "trail blazers"....this dawned on me while I was sitting in my living room this evening.   

The close up shows the hairs that mark where the blow of the axe stopped.    Every tree heals differently which affects the appearance of the blaze.    I suspect that the blaze with the resin is Jack Pine and that the other is Black Spruce.    Once you locate the first blaze you travel from blaze to blaze following the portage trail until you reach the next body of water. Aboriginal people and fur trappers and traders logically followed existing game trails created by moose and caribou that still use those routes today, following the path of least resistance   Most often there is a visible trail, quite often cluttered up and made impassible by blow downs.   Blow downs are very common since the pine and spruce grow very tall in very shallow soil on the granite ridges of the Canadian Shield.  A tall tree catches a lot of wind and when the shear winds, or down drafts hit they often take down a tree or two....   So that's a little history behind the origin of the portage trail.    Sometimes there are no trees on the "caribou ridges" close to the trail, and rock cairns or inukshuks like this one are used to mark the way.

I could go on but will stop with this small glimpse.   The image near the beginning of the post of the moss covered forest is etched in my mind.   It is characteristic of the boreal forest.    If you look closely as you meander, you can spot where the hooves of a moose or caribou have sunk in....it's not a wonder you can't hear them coming or going.   I realize now what we lose in order to have paper for our daily use.    I know we need it, and I know I can't do without it....but it's a steep price to lose this irreplaceable wilderness and a good reason for projects that seek to protect it.    This remote park is beautiful in its grandeur, but also in its minutia.

Look for more posts and feel free to ask questions!!

Sights, Sounds, & Echoes

Common Tansy

Casting a few before sunset.

Pinot Grigio on the deck while the lads swim.

The Mapleglen heading for the Iroquois Lock

The Mapleglen gliding through.

I love holidays...it doesn't matter whether they are long or short.   I'll take them.

I should share that we've been white water rafting on the Ottawa river and all survived.   We stayed at Doran Bay Resort, a rustic little spot we've stayed at several times over the years.   Home of the original two cup coffee maker!   We rafted with OWL Rafting, in Forrester's Falls and highly recommend them!   Their facility is tops, their staff are all so welcoming and open, and the adrenaline...well that's free.    The whole adventure was first rate, from beginning to end!

We drove up on wednesday, our anniversary....and drove to OWL on Thursday morning for our afternoon adventure.   It almost didn't happen as our original trip was cancelled.   But we were able to join up with another group only missing the first chute...and looking at the video, that was okay because lots of rafts tipped there!   We went through class I to V rapids and all had an awesome time!   The general consensus is that we'll likely do it again....and the next time stay at OWL and go for two days....

Holidays always have three parts:  Anticipating the fun, having the fun, and remembering the fun.    These are the things we saw and heard and want to remember.

The sights:

• looking across the St Lawrence at the American shoreline.
• having my first coffee of the day on the deck watching Ray fish in an anchored canoe.
• seeing a freighter, that you've been hearing for miles, glide into view.  
• seeing Joe and Ray in whitewater kayaks learning the fine art of the "wet exit".
• my blue finger, crushed and sprained when it got rolled between the raft and the buckles of my life jacket, after my "wet exit" on the river.   It still blue-ish.
• the incredible smoothness of the black water before it hits rock and turns into white froth.    (I love the accompanying feeling of gleeful dread as you stare the whitewater right between the eyes, and attack with your paddle "double time".)  Rafting is NOT a spectator sport.



Ray and Joe in class.



Ready for action.



Joe's kayak is belly up....the "wet exit".  Travis has it under control!



Joe in his "skirt!

The sounds:

• four voices laughing in unison.
• waking up to the sounds of the pounding of a freighter's enormous diesel engines.
• the trees rustling through by the open bedroom windows.
• the splash of the boys jumping into pool apres-rafting.

Highlights:

• brekkie in my pj's on the deck watching Ray go fishing and hearing about the awesome fish he fought.   He is still talking about it.
• wearing jeans, socks and a fleecy because it was we got cold in the wind, after rafting!  
• the tug boat and pontoon ride back to the dock.
• making our guide Kari's day by giving her a blueberry-strawberry muffin out of our snack stash.   We gave her a tip and a muffin and she said thanks for the MUFFIN.   
• being surprised by my beautiful diamond pendant necklace anniversary surprise....and knowing Ray is equally thrilled with his gift...our going to Wabikimi together this week.....STOKED!!
• returning to Doran Bay at this totally different stage in life.   
• Anniversary supper at Swiss Chalet, and shopping at IKEA and the Bass Pro Shop on the way up.

Sporties on top.  Below are the 12 person rafts....

The echoes:

Craig & the pontoon boats that took us back to OWL.

• ....this is the after-part of vacation.    Think and drive.   It's what I do.   It happens on the way home, during a great tune or lyric, or the 18th time you've heard the stock market recap on AM980.    Driving after days spent together with your beloved ones...it sure is close quarters in a Sonata, for teenagers.   It was different fun when they were toddlers with short arms strapped in car seats:)   I came to the realization that being a family  is quite a ride....very similar to being out on the water.   Some days it is smooth sailing,  you can take time to do some relaxing, fishing...you don't have to work at it.   Then there are days when you're tripping or trekking.  It's work and you have to invest regular constant energy to keep things moving forward.   There are even whitewater days where you find yourself in the fray and froth paddling double time just to stay in the boat, or if you fall in...keeping your head above the water and the paddle in your hands.  But if you have the right equipment on, and the right Guide, you know you'll get through.   If you don't equip yourself, or condition yourself , even the smooth water will be strenuous.   
• I love paddling with Ray...we happen to be a perfect compliment....he paddles left and I paddle right.   It's good to have that difference.... among others.    It wouldn't work well if we were both lefties!!  One of us would be very unhappy a lot of the time, and Wabikimi would probably turn out to be a solo trip. 
• Part of the secret is learning to find contentment.  When getting what you want becomes less important than giving what someone else needs.   It's about  the offering  of yourself, not because you want to please the other person, but because you love the feeling of making the other person happy.   It's very satisfying.  It's not about giving and taking, it's about offering and receiving.   "Learning how to bend not how to break." -Jon Foreman.